Abaca. Incorrectly called Manilla hemp. Fibre commonly used in the Philippines. Fibres are tied end to end and woven without spinning.
Absorbent cotton. Fibre or cloth with natural oil or wax removed chemically. Because of absorbent nature, used for surgical purposes.
Acetate rayon.    See Rayon.
Ada Canvas.    See Canvas

Armore
Name derived from French "Armoires" meaning coat-of-arms. A stiff, rich looking silk, usually black. Uses: cravats, trimmings, facings for men's dress coats. Weave-fancy, called barathea. Width, 20", 36".

Adatties: Very fine muslin of cotton imported from India at the end of the 17th century.

Aeolian.   See Eolienne.

Airplane cloth. Originally made of linen for airplane wings. Close even texture. Since the war made of cotton in different weights and colors. Used chiefly in shirts. Weave—• plain.
Albatross. A light weight wool fabric with crepy surface, due to twist of yarns. Piece-dyed, usually in light colors. Launders well. A variety of albatross 44" wide is called Cripe Egypta, a trade name. Uses: dresses, negligees and infant's wear.    Weave—plain.    Width, 36".

A   jours.Fr.    Syns.:    modes   (Fr.) ;    fillings,   lead-works (Eng.).
Fancy open stitches introduced in spaces in the pattern of both bobbin- and needle-point lace.
Aledo.    See silk and cotton fabrics.

Alapeen: Mixed wool and silk fabric used primarily for men's clothing in 18th century England.

Alencon This, the most elaborate needle-point lace which has ever been produced in France, was first made in about 1665

Allegae ( Allejae, alacha, alligeer): fine cloth of mixed cotton and silk imported from India by the East India Company in the XVIIth c.

Alpaca. 1. An animal somewhat like the Angora goat, but smaller, native to South America. 2. Name of a fabric originally made of this fibre. Similar to brilliantine and mohair. Smooth, wiry with cotton warp and worsted filling (alpaca, mohair or any lustrous wool slightly twisted). Wears well, sheds dust. Uses: linings, men's summer suits and office coats, women's dresses (when in vogue). . Rayon and cotton fabric called alpaca because of its wiry nature.

Amamee: Cotton cloth, plain weave made from smooth fine yarns in Bengal

Amens: a kind of fabric with fancy pattern originally made in Amiens, France.

Annabasse: Wool cloth used to make blankets in the 18th century and often imported from Africa. ( "Journaux de bord et de traite de Joseph Crassous de Médeuil")

Annure. I. Drapery fabric with designs woven on a rep foundation, or a figure weave. Plain or mixed colors usually of cotton. Uses: couch covers, portieres. Weave —-Jacquard. Width, 50". 2. Silk fabric, closely woven with small pebbly pattern which suggests chain armor.
 

 

Appliqué
A.   Term used to describe a method of working lace
in which the pattern is made separately and sewn on a
net ground when completed.
B.   A class of embroidery in which the pattern is cut
out of one material and sewn on (applied) a ground of
another, or on one of the same material but contrasting
in colour.

Argentan Point : The needle-point lace made at Argentan is the only needle-point lace with a net ground besides Alencon which has ever been made in France. It is probable that factories at both places were established in the reign of Louis XIV. by Colbert, but its name does not appear in the ordinance.

Arras Lace made in the north of France in Arras

Art linen. A general term applied to a variety of plain woven linens used for embroidery. May be unbleached, ecru, white; "round thread" i.e., not calendered or smooth. Uses: chiefly needlework as lunch cloths, napkins, doilies, towels, runners; also dresses, skirts, uniforms. Weave-plain. Widths 18", 20", 27", 36", 42", 45", 48", 54". 60", 72", 81", 9°"-

Art ticking. Distinguished from regular bed ticking by its printed design. Often a floral pattern in a stripe. A tough firm cloth. Uses: mattresses and pillow covers, sometimes as cretonne. Weave—Satin or twill.  Width, 36".
Artificial leather. A substitute for leather made by coating a cotton fabric with a nitro-cellulose preparation and embossing the surface to imitate leather. Various effects produced by kind of fabric foundation and the color and finish of surface. A good grade of manufactured leather is more durable than a poor grade of split leather.    Sold under trade names as Pantasote, Leatkerwove, Fabrikoid, Zapon, etc. Uses: upholstering, suit cases, millinery and dress trimmings.
Artificial silk.   See Rayon.
Artificial wool.   See Snia-fil.
Asbestos. Fireproof fibre of mineral origin. Spun with cotton and woven. Cotton later burned away. Used for theater curtains and firemen's gloves.

Assisi embroidery : From Assissi in Italy. Embroidery in which the designs themselves are left unworked and stand out in white from a solid background worked in cross_stitches.

Astrachan. Wool coating made to imitate Astrachan or Karakul fur. Foundation cloth, knitted or woven of cotton or wool. Curly pile of mohair yarn slightly twisted. May resemble the close curl of Persian lamb fur. Good quality. Wears well. Uses: coats for men, women and children, caps, muffs, trimmings. Weave—pile (may have knit back).   Width, 52".

 

Aubusson. (Fr. pr. o-bus-sone). Carpet made in Aubusson, France on hand looms.    A kind of tapestry.
Austrian shade cloth. Originally made in Austria. Cotton shade cloth woven with crinkled effect in stripes, which are similar to seersucker only broader. Fancy woven stripes in color often alternate with crinkled stripes. Cotton, or mercerized cotton, silk or rayon used in combination. Natural, white or colored. Uses: window shades, bed spreads. Weave—plain with fancy stripes. Width, 36", 45", 54", 72".
Axminster. Pile carpet named for town in England where first made.
Automobile tire cloth. A variety of weaves and textures made from long staple cotton for tires. Treated with rubber and vulcanized.

Awning stripe. Duck woven with stripes (yarn dyed) for awnings and lawn umbrellas. May be used for couch covers and chair seats.

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