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Mercerized Vesting

Mercerized vesting is either a light or heavy weight cotton wash fabric weighing from 5 to 8 ounces per yard, finished, and is made of one, two or three warps and one or two fillings. When made of one warp and filling, a light weight can be produced in case the warp and filling are both mercerized yarns. The warp for the face of the cloth ranges from 2-20s to 2-60s mercerized cotton, and the filling from l-10s to l-16s cotton. The styles range from granite and basket weave effects in solid white, to the more elaborate figured patterns, such as are created by forming spots on the face of the cloth, from warp effect diamond, cross and curved twill weaves, so arranged as to scatter the design in regular formation, in imitation of jacquard designs.

The extra back warp is for the purpose of adding weight to the fabric, also permitting greater scope in face v eave effects, the idea being to so arrange the face weave as to thoroughly cover the coarse filling, the back warp binding the filling into the cloth, under the figure floats of the face weave. In making a vesting having a back warp, always use a two-ply yarn for this warp, as a single yarn will bead In the weaving, which means a loss of time every few hours in removing same, and the warp will not shed properly when the yarn is beaded, which causes the reed to cut +ih'e yarn. The quickest way to remove the heads from the yarn in the shed is to loosen the top of the reed cap, and lay the reed up on the cloth. The beads may then be either cut off, or drawn through tha reed. If the latter method is used, the beads form a line of small lumps upon the face of the cloth, from one selvedge to the other. While this in itself Is not a serious imperfection, it means that the cloth must be cut at this point.
to remove the lumps, which to a certain extent destroys the utility of the piece in manufacturing the garments. EITHER A DOBBY OR JACQUARD. This fabric can be woven on either the dobhy or jacquard loom. Most of the popular imported jacquard effects can be imitated successfully on the dobby loom, having either single or double box filling motion. It is best adapted to the Knowlas Gem Harness loom, or the Fairmount, 4x1, box loom, having the Ingraham head motion attached. To finish this fabric, the cloth goes from the loom to the measuring machine, after which it is scoured, during which operation the goods are run through a solution of soap and cold water to remove all stains such as mill dirt and grease spots. After washing it is calendered or pressed, and each piece is folded and doubled up in heavy paper and tied with a cheap tape. It is them ready to pack and ship. A style having great vogue in the spring of 1904 was a mixed effect, produced by using an all white mercerized warp, and black mercerized filling, the ground weave being 1 up, 1 down and the figure, small, double-headed triangles.



Carding and Spinning Particulars.

The counts of yarn required to manufacture tibe fabric under description wouldi be made in the third or possibly ini the second division of mills, as given in a previous lesson. It will be understood that a great many grades of fancy vesting are made and that the range of the counts of the yarns is also varied. For this article we will consider that the warp yarn count is 2-60s and that the filling yarn is 16s count. The grade of cotton used for the finer counit should be good and the length of the staple about 1% Inches, although cotton from 1% to 1% inches may be used. For the coarser yarn a cotton with the staple of 1 inch may be used. The two different cottons would be TREATED ALIKE up to a certain point and unless otherwise noted what is said may be applied to both cottons. The cotton raw stock should be first brought to the bale breaker and there stapled and graded by the overseer and all bales not up to the proper standard laid aside. Several bales should be opened and placed around the bale breaker and fed to this machine alternately; that is, first a section from one bale and then a section from another, until all the cotton is fed, and not one bale fed until it is all gone. By the first, method a more even mixing is obtained. Two processes of picking and an opener are generally used, and after allowing the co.lton to -stand in the bins as long as possible, wlhere the good sliver waste from the cards, sliver lap and ribbon lap machines, combs, drawing frames and slubber is MIXED WITH THE RAW STOCK, the cotton is fed to the hopper of the opener. This machine is really the first machine that evens .the cotton so that a certain weight of cotton will be delivered for a certain length. In order to accomplish this the hopper should be kept as nearly full as possible so that the lifting apron will always be loaded. The speed of the beater of this machine is about 1,050 revolutions per minute, having a fan speed of 350 revolutions per minute. The cotton is delivered from this machine to the feed rolls of the breaker picker. The speed of a rigid two-bladed type of beater should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute, the fan speedi being 1,400 revolutions per minute.
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